How To Buy A Horse

Buying a horse is actually the simple procedure of exchanging dollars and cents for an animal of your choice. But buying an animal suited to your abilities is a difficult task. Before looking for a horse decide what use and purpose the horse will serve, for pleasure, for breeding, or for showing. Each of these is in a different category and requires a different kind of animal. However, you may be fortunate enough to find a combination of all three attributes. It is true the "outside of a horse is good for the inside of a man." This, however, will not be true if you buy the first horse you see. Also, don't fall so much in love with a horse that you can't sell it to buy a better one. This sounds like a heartless piece of advice, and it is in a way. It is not the money involved in buying a horse that might prove unsound, but in the attachment you form so quickly. To be forced to destroy an unsound animal is like losing part of your family. It doesn't take long for an animal to entwine himself around your heart. Also, every horse becomes old far sooner than the rider. This is why it is so important to buy the right one. Shop around and look at many before you decide. There are two ways to buy a horse—from a private owner and from an auction.

There are many different types of horse auctions. And, like buying from an individual, some are more reputable than others. Perhaps the main drawback in going to the auction is that you don't have the opportunity to inspect the stock thoroughly, or you seldom try it before you buy. If you know the reputation of the auction or the selling individual you stand a better chance of getting a fair deal.

Most reputable sales now publish catalogs giving pictures, pedigrees, and information about the consigned horses. A breeder may have a complete dispersal sale, which means, as the name implies, that he will sell all of his stock. He may be going into another business, retiring, or working on another breed. Sometimes a ranch will have a dispersal sale to dispose of young stock and to place an oversupply of certain bloodlines in different parts of the country. Sometimes older stock, of fine bloodlines, will be sold to make room for younger stock, of equally fine pedigrees. There are invitational sales where top quality stock is offered to a few selected breeders. There are specific breed auctions where only registered stock is sold. These are quality sales where every consigned animal is inspected by a veterinarian and sifting committee. This protects the buyer from unsound animals. Sometimes a two-day auction may be held to sell grades one day and purebreds the next. Sometimes breed associations will sponsor an auction such as the Thoroughbred and Quarter Horse to sell yearlings and two-year-olds. Auctions sponsored by a registry association will set up certain standards. If it is a production sale it is used to present the best of a breeder's or association's breeding program or to cull out the bad ones. However, at this type of sale, attention is called to blemishes and unsound horses are usually eliminated.

Then there are the weekly or monthly auctions held locally by a sale barn where everything and anything is sold. Here, whether you pick up a bargain or get stung, depending upon the reputation of the sale yard or your own knowledge of horse flesh, is where the usual pleasure horse is sought.

If you go to an auction of this type be sure to take a horseman with you. Remember, you buy the animal "as is" and there are no refunds. Most stockmen selling horses will do so in the fall of the year so as not to feed them through the Winter. The prices are lowest in December and January, starting to rise in February. Horses are taken to this type of auction either for a quick sale or if there is unsoundness in the animal. The average price of good horses—by that I mean breeding, training, and beauty of form—does not change, but the market for what we call "trading horses" varies with the seasons. Mainly, these consist of mediocre stock of no particular breeding, aged animals, has-beens, and stock that someone must sell quickly for some reason or other. Yet, some good horses are sold at the horse auctions run by sales companies.

An experienced horseman may be able to detect unsound-ness better than you can. Don't be afraid to buy a thin animal, however. A horse can be put in good shape in thirty days with good feed. It will be thin for three reasons. First: because of lack of proper feed. Second: because of worms. Third: bad teeth. For any other reason there would be a definite sigh of illness and the animal would not be allowed in the sale yard.

In dealing with the private owner there should be a guarantee as to the health of the horse. If you are in doubt it is advisable to have a veterinarian examine the animal. No reputable dealer will ever refuse to permit such an examination. Blemishes do not always mean a horse is unsound. A horse is judged by appearance, and while blemishes do not interfere with the performance of the animal they do reflect the owner's care of the horse. Cuts and abrasions do leave a blemish sometimes; however, such injuries can be taken care of so as not to leave scars. Unsoundness is anything that causes a malfunction of the part of anatomy of the horse such as ringbone, heavy scarring, faulty conformation, or a pulled muscle. An experienced horseman will be able to find faults that you would never see. He will look first for soundness in sight, wind, and limb. He will understand personality traits and degrees of being spoiled.

Consider these tests before you buy a horse:

1. Look at him from a distance and examine his build as a whole. This is called conformation, and each breed of horse has certain characteristics that identify him by form. The animal should carry his head well and be neatly put together.
   
   
2. Check for soundness. Run your hands up and down his legs. Look for an unexplained lump or sign of soreness.
   
   
3. Test his vision. A horse should blink when you wave your hand in back of his eye.
   
   
4. See whether or not he leads in or out of the stable easily.
   
   
5. Watch saddling and bridling. See if he is uneasy when cinched. Some horses are afraid of a girth, caused by too tight a cinch. Notice whether or not he is bridle shy, touchy about the ears; whether he opens his mouth to receive the bit.
   
   
6. Have the owner ride the animal so you can see how he handles. Watch whether he stops easily, reins well, backs, and has an easy gait. Have the owner work the horse to a gallop. Try to determine if he is speed crazy. The owner should guarantee the safety of the animal as to training. Also, note whether or not there is excessive breathing, noise with the breathing, and flanks that heave spasmodically.
   
   
7. Most important! Ride the horse yourself. Is he smooth in the walk, trot, and canter? Does he shy? Is he spooky? Can you start and stop him? Is he too spirited for you to handle? Does he switch his tail constantly? Can you ride him away from the stable? A tail-switcher means that the animal has been pushed too fast in training and indicates nervousness. Usually a horse that has been trained by a woman will not like a man rider, or will be uneasy with a man on his back. Sometimes this works in the reverse. Many times it is because of the handling of the reins. A man is normally heavier handed than a woman. However, this depends on the horse and the rider in the main, but it is something to consider in buying a horse that has been privately owned by one person for some time.
   
   
8. Don't buy a stallion. He may look good in the movies but is not practicable in real life. He is likely to be unpredictable and should be managed only by an expert horse man. He belongs, mainly, on the breeding farm. You'll find just as much spirit and animation in a good mare or gelding and far less trouble.

No horse is perfect, but whatever faults are present you must decide whether or not they may be eliminated with some training. Many times all a horse needs is work. Horses also respond to owners. They have their likes and dislikes. Personalities clash just as between people. Whole personalities have changed with ownership.

Be sure the animal is suited to your own capabilities. And, once again, don't buy the first horse you see. Somewhere there is a horse suited to you. Two things are important: the age of the rider and of the horse, and the experience or lack of it in both rider and animal.

One must equal the other, rider and animal, because no matter how well trained the horse, if the rider does not understand this training, then the horse will not work well. And a good horse can soon be ruined by a poor rider.

There is no need to be an expert to find pleasure with a horse, but both animal and rider must know the basic principles of horsemanship to be compatible. Too many prospective horse buyers are entranced by the animal's appearance and forget to find if the horse is suitable. If the horse cannot be managed by the rider he is no good for the new owner no matter how beautiful he is.

If only a pleasure horse is desired, an animal from nine to sixteen years old will prove a safer mount for a child than a younger animal. The pleasure horse is the most reasonable to buy and maintain. You should find one for about $100 to $350. Try to find an animal that has been privately owned, is gentle and reasonably trained. Everyone who desires to own a horse should take at least a year of instruction in riding. In buying a mature horse there will be less danger than in finding one that becomes easily excited; he will have more patience, and will tolerate reasonable use by children.

Even a gentle horse is apt to become mean if parents allow children to aggravate it hour after hour. Parents must be ready to teach a child compassion and respect for the animal's rights. Teasing should not be permitted, and certain hours for riding should be planned. A parent who is not willing to do this may be buying trouble.

As with every other sport you can either get by with little expense or spend a small fortune. Everything depends upon what you want from your horse and the type of riding you are going to do. Remember, owning a horse is a pleasure and comes under the head of entertainment. When you think of the cost of keeping it, compare it with other forms of sport and entertainment costwise.

There are many good, useful horses who will never win a prize for beauty but will be loyal and safe and pleasurable. With common-sense care there should be no more cost than routine feeding. A parent should remember this: a child's horse, dependable, safe, affectionate, and healthy, is worth thousands of dollars in the peace of mind he gives, even if it is a fifty-dollar animal in actual money. Many horses are usable until twenty years of age, a few even older. For the very young child there is nothing better than an old horse to start on.

For the person who wishes to show in the ring a more specialized animal must be sought. First, decide what category of showing you wish to enter. Usually a well-trained horse can be used in most of the performance classes. The same animal can be used for Western Pleasure, Equitation, and Trail-horse Class. Depending on the animal and its disposition, this same horse can be used in the Stock-horse Class. This, however, is a difficult class and takes a good horse and good hands.

Surely no one is going to try to show a horse without knowledge of horsemanship. To do so would be a waste of time and money because of the competition. The correct riding clothes and the right kind of saddle are important. An animal of good breeding and good conformation is important also. And most important of all is the willingness of the rider to work. To go into the show ring seriously takes many hours of practice and an effort at perfection. The horse must be kept in top physical condition and well groomed.

A good show animal is quiet and steady in the ring and just animated for the requirements of the class. A fiery animal has no place in western showing. There are two courses to follow in buying a show animal. A horse can be bought by reputation. This is one who has already collected trophies and ribbons or one that promises to be a winner. These horses are usually schooled and trained by a professional. The second way is to train your own horse.

If there is enough knowledge of horsemanship there is no reason why an owner cannot train his own horse. The experienced horseman usually prefers to buy a green colt and train it from the beginning. This, however, takes a long period of time and is a good idea only if the exhibitor is willing to wait.

In the ring good sportsmanship is a must. The crowd is quick to boo the rider who takes his loss out on the horse. Therefore much depends on whether you want the rigors of the show ring or you want only the pleasure of equine companionship. Horses have their good days and bad days so at times will not work so well as they're able. Decide what you can pay, and try to find the best animal to fit the price you can afford. Conformation costs, and so does training. Try, also, to find the most for the least. This is "horse trading," but, as with everything else, you usually get what you pay for.

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