Getting Acquainted With Your Horse

Before anyone can become a successful horseman there must be an understanding between owner and animal. The horse is in many ways like a child. He forms habits readily and whether they are good or bad is up to you. The good habits must be developed and the start of bad ones stopped at the first sign. You must build confidence. Establish in your horse's mind your method of approval and whenever he does your bidding always use the same manner of compliment whether it be reward or voice.

In the beginning all the potential horseman sees is this beautiful animal with the big brown eyes, lovable and endearing. But the horse is a complex animal with intense emotions often as deep as a human's. As you watch him, put yourself in his place and try to think as he thinks. Step down to his level so you may understand his fears and frustrations.

Take your time getting acquainted and don't expect the impossible of him. It will take a few days to become used to new quarters. Don't make demands of him that are beyond his physical and mental capabilities. If you find the animal has some bad habits, work methodically, step by step, as the habits present themselves. A horse is never too old to train provided he has not been broken in spirit or hurt physically.

The horse's upper lip is his finger. He uses it to examine everything. Before presenting something new to your horse, let him feel it with his lip. Don't rush him. Let him take his time. You will be surprised how quickly he will accept what is requested. A horse and rider work best as a unit.

Because the main quality of this unit is understanding a rider will get the most from his horse if the animal has full confidence. He fears disfavor, so we work on his craving for approval. The best way to become acquainted with a horse and to discover his little idiosyncrasies is by grooming. Take much time at this, and stop to talk and pet him. He will not understand the words, but it will accustom him to the tones of your voice. Have a few pieces of carrot in your pocket so he will look to you for tidbits. However, don't feed him sugar. The animal becomes so fond of it that he will get overanxious and be apt to nip at you in an effort to get more. Make your horse feel you mean him no harm when you approach him. You will notice how alert he is at this time because he does not know what to expect from you. Horses often sleep on their feet. Be cautious until you get to know him well.

When you approach him in the stall, be sure he knows you are behind him before entering. Be sure his weight is on the side on which you intend to enter. If he is inclined to kick or if you startle him, you can be safely out of the way before he can change position and kick with the leg on your side. You will find that your horse will relax around you as soon as he is used to your presence and knows how you will act around him.

Take every precaution with a new animal until you thoroughly recognize his likes and dislikes. When walking around his rear, stay close to him. If he should kick, he will only be able to shove you, but if you are two feet away you could receive the full impact of the kick. An animal likes the feel of a hand. Run your hand along his back when close to him. Examine your horse thoroughly to see what condition his coat, head, and feet are in. A rough coat may indicate worms or improper feeding. Examine his feet for small rocks and need of trimming.

A horse's feet should be cleaned well about the frog every day. Carrying your extra weight, a rock lodged in the frog of the foot might cause severe lameness, and there is always danger of a nail. The type of country you live in and where you will be riding will determine whether he needs to be shod or not. Rocky country and pavement demand shoes.

Pasture and soft mountain trails will allow an animal to go barefoot. The feet should be trimmed every three months. If your horse is shod, the shoes should be watched for wear. Ill-shod horses or those forced to wear worn shoes are just as miserable as a person whose feet are not properly cared for. Shoes should be reset or replaced every six weeks at the longest.

Find out what kind of bit your horse has been used to, and if he works all right with it, then buy the same thing. For pleasure riding all that is needed for a well-trained animal is a snaffle or low port curb bit, or you may want to ride him with just a bosal and rope reins. The hackamore was first used by the Spaniards to teach reining. Rawhide was woven into a loop, placed over the animal's muzzle, and tied with a hair rope to form reins and a tie rope. A single loop of leather over the top of the head held the bosal in place. The hair rope was tied in such a way that the knot fitted directly under the jaw. It rubbed a tender spot, which made the animal easy to stop to get away from the hurt. Different-size bosals were woven to suit the purpose. From this idea came the metal hackamore bits. There are many types of hackamore bits, some severe and some worth little. The Kelly hackamore works as a squeeze bit and will stop the toughest animal. The good point of the metal hackamore is that it will not tear the horse's mouth because it works only on the nose and jaw. Many ropers prefer the hackamore bit. However, don't be in too much of a hurry to change bits. Get acquainted with the animal's way of going and later decide if anything needs to be done. You must get used to him and he must become accustomed to your hands.

Keep your horse haltered when you first bring him home. It is always easier to handle an animal if you have some method of restraint, providing you have him under constant observation. However, when you are ready to turn your horse into pasture, remove his halter and allow him to run free. There is nothing better than a well-fitted halter with which to handle a horse, but too many owners are careless with the way they place a halter on their horse. They either leave it too loose or buckle it too tightly around the throat. A light halter will break easily if the animal pulls back when the leather is caught on a nail or fencing, but a strong, heavy, stitched halter is not easily broken. It is possible for an animal to get his foot caught while cropping grass. It is natural for him to struggle to free himself, and the result could be a broken leg or even neck. Rope halters are cheap, and many horsemen use them, but they are extremely dangerous to leave unattended. Rain will shrink them, causing swelling and distortion of the horse's head, not to mention agony and pain. In tying your horse you should know two knots and when to use them.

First: a slipknot. Never tie a slipknot around the animal's neck. If you intend to use a slipknot fasten it only to the halter. Also, when tying to a fence or rail be sure to tie the horse up fairly short so he will not be able to get his leg over the rope and cause a burn. A bowline knot can be safely used directly around the horse's neck.

Sometimes a new horse is hard to catch in a pasture. If you carry bits of carrot or apple when you go to catch him you will find he will come to you as soon as he sees you. Don't approach in a hurry. A horse who thinks you are not interested in catching him will soon approach you with the hope of a "handout." If you have taught him to "come," then stop and wait for him. Some like to run a little, to tease, before they decide to come to you. Let him have his fun; it is quicker than chasing him. Don't leave your horse tied for hours at a time. Always tie him while grooming or cleaning his feet.

Every animal should be taught to lift his feet to have them cleaned, All horses have to be taught to balance on three legs while the fourth is being handled. Reach for the pastern or fetlock and shove against the horse to make him put his weight on the opposite leg. Lift and bring the foot into position to see the bottom of the hoof. Hold the hoof in the left hand and grasping the pick so that the pointed end is down, clean out the crevasses about the frog. Watch for small pieces of gravel and nails. In handling the rear feet, after you lift the foot, walk away from the horse, slightly pulling his foot back. This will force the balance on the opposite foot, the ankle joint against your thigh, and the hoof will be easier to manage. Clean the horse's feet before every ride.

Don't bring your horse out of the stall, mount, and trot or gallop off. Give

him a proper grooming first. In the wintertime it may seem a waste of time to attempt to groom a heavy coat, but it will make the animal feel better. It will hasten shedding in the spring. A teaspoonful of raw linseed oil in the grain three times a week will hasten shedding and put a layer of fat underneath the skin.

After saddling, walk the horse around to get the cinch adjusted and to be sure the saddle is firm. Don't cinch the saddle too tightly. With proper balance a rider can even use a saddle without a cinch, so there is no necessity of making the animal uncomfortable. When mounted, don't start off with a gallop. A horse needs to be warmed up as any athlete should. Be sure to walk the last part of a ride. There is a rule for horses that you walk the first mile out and the last mile in. After a ride, if your horse is hot, loosen the girth and walk him around until cool. Remove the saddle, scrub him well with the rubber currycomb, and brush him down. After a final brushing a flannel cloth is good for wiping the animal's coat and putting a gloss to it.

Your horse is a creature of habit, so keep him happy with a routine feeding schedule. He will not do well if fed at four o'clock one day and seven the next. Remember your horse is dependent on you and your care. Use common sense and you'll both be happy.

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